Doctor-driven products have been driving skincare launches for the last few years. Now, herbalists are becoming the new formulators and launching natural skincare lines. Christian Toscano of Roots Rose Radish offers a range of 100% natural skincare products originally crafted from plants grown in her garden. Earth Tu Face was launched by Sarah Buscho and Marina Storm, two herbalists in San Francisco. The line is also 100% natural and purely plant-based. Brooklyn Herborium was founded by two Moms who wanted their children to live “chemical-free” lives. Emma Graves an herbalist and Molly Watman a graphic designer, created the The Clean & Green Collection for babies, kids, new and expecting moms. Dr. Fedorenko is a clinical herbalist, naturopath and dermatologist M.D. who recently introduced Dr. Fedorenko True Organic Tick & Mosquito Repellent, which is DEET and alcohol-free, organic certified and formulated with essential oils.
Expect to see more herbalists join the trend and craft natural beauty products to meet consumers’ growing demand for natural products.
I was so inspired by our last hands-on TrendIncite Xchange meeting that I decided to continue the “creativity and inspirational me” theme and reached out to Sue Phillips of Scenterprises. Sue lead our group on a creative fragrance journey, where each of us created our own custom scent. I’ve been in the fragrance and flavor industry for 20 years and until now I’ve never created my own signature scent.
Eight of us gathered at Sue’s apartment where she explained the seven major olfactive categories – Citrus, Floral, Fruity, Oriental, Chypre, Woody and Fougere. Sue compared fragrances to food and music and explained that each had a beginning, a middle and an end. In fragrance terms that translates to top notes, middle notes and base notes. We were then given a lifestyle questionnaire with 11 questions about our preferences that ranged from fabrics to seasons to vacation spots to film icons. We individually tallied our responses, which corresponded to four olfactive categories – Citrus, Floral, Oriental and Woody. Then Sue shared 14 fragrance accords with us such as Balsamic, Citrus, Green, Mossy, Ozonic, and Rose Floral. After evaluating the accords on blotters we were encouraged to choose up to four of our favorite fragrance directions, which would be used to create our custom, signature scents. I choose the Citrus, Gentle Floral, Balsamic and Woody accords and voilàEau de Trendincite was born. It is rather sweet and smells differently than I expected. It does have a sweet figgy and plum accord, which I like. The verdict is not out yet as I’m still getting accustomed to the fragrance and evaluating it. However, my mother and daughter love it!
Working for three leading fragrance houses, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Fragrance is a very personal experience and much more complex than one may think. I thought I would be formulating my own scent with my favorite accords – Bergamot, Orange flower and Vetiver with a hint of Musk and Vanilla. This was not the case. Sue uses a predetermined set of finished accords. I enjoyed my experience and I’m glad I had the opportunity to create my own scent. Sue’s fragrance exercise is perfect for fragrance novices who are looking to creatively express themselves with a custom signature scent.
When’s the last time you did something creative for yourself? It’s been so long, I can’t remember.
During a random conversation with an industry friend and colleague, we discussed a creative vision board workshop, which she recently attended and found both inspirational and enjoyable. I’m always looking for inspiration in my work and personal life. Naturally this piqued my interest. While lying in bed, wide awake with my mind racing, a usual occurrence, I experienced a eureka…”what a great subject matter for my next TrendIncite Xchange meeting.”
My sister, a member of my TrendIncite Xchange group, graciously agreed to host a creative vision board workshop with an intimate group of 10 members at her NYC apartment. Boards, magazines, scissors and glue sticks in hand, Michele Curico lead our workshop.
Based on the Bagua map, Michele briefly explained the Feng Shui concept and how it applied to our exercise. Our blank, white 16″ x 16″ boards had nine quadrants, each representing a personal aspect of our lives. Top left to right: Wealth, Fame (how we want to be perceived), Partnership (relationship focused), Family, Health, Children, Education, Career, and Helpful People.
We were instructed to select words and images from magazines that represented our creative vision for what we wanted to accomplish and focus our energy on for each quadrant for 2013.
Feeling like a kid again in elementary school, I leisurely and giddily flipped through magazines, tearing and cutting words and images that inspired me or caught my attention. It was so hands on, so tactile and so rudimentary. But wow, what a cathartic exercise!
For me the challenge was to sort and artistically apply this visual content to each quadrant. After I laid out the information, I hesitantly glued it to the board. I felt like I was making a commitment. At first, I thought this feeling stemmed from wanting to make the board look artistic. However, I realized it wasn’t about the aesthetics of the board. It was about being focused and clear on what my vision was and making the commitment to achieve these goals or at least try to.
Two hours flew by and all 10 of us were thoroughly engaged and immersed in the exercise. It was this creative and inspirational “me” time, which made each of us reflectively focus on ourselves. We so often forget or don’t make the time to do this. At the close of the workshop, Michele led us in a focused meditation to channel our energy and help us visualize the boards to achieve our goals. Let’s see what happens in 2013!
Here is my 2013 vision board
Gabrielle Marks’ 2013 vision board
Missy Mazelon’s 2013 vision board
Karen Dubin’s 2013 vision board
Janice Hart’s 2013 vision board
A few quotes from other TrendIncite Xchange members…
“So far the purple (abundance) is working, new projects are coming in! Still waiting for the age appropriate fella to show up!” – Judy Galloway
“The vision board session allowed me to take time out my hectic schedule to focus on what I want to focus on for 2013. I am excited to see evidence of some of my wishes coming to fruition already.” – Helen Kim
“The create your own vision boards presented by Michele Curcio was a great event with lots of positive energy flowing throughout the evening. My goals have already started to unfold.” – Danielle Milata
Two weeks ago my Blackberry Bold 9930 was in my back pocket and to my surprise when I went to the bathroom, I noticed it had fallen into the toilet. I had heard that if this happens, (a far too common occurrence), you should submerge the phone in a bag of rice. Hoping any electrical parts would dry up and my phone would work again, I did so. Unfortunately, 24 hours later I checked and my phone did not work. Luckily it was the weekend and I had no appointments. I really did not need my phone. However, I felt disconnected.
Debating if I should give in and purchase a touch-screen smart phone like the IPhone or Samsung Galaxy SIII (which I wrote about in my 1st post), I decided to use my insurance and just replace it with the same Blackberry. As mentioned in earlier posts, I don’t like change for the sake of change. An aside, I am slowly moving into the 21st century and switched from my firstname.lastname@example.org e-mail to email@example.com e-mail.
Anyhow, I was without a smart phone for four days. At first I was a bit disoriented and felt a little lost considering I’ve had a cell phone for 13 years. It’s quite sad how we have become so dependent on technology. There was something nice about not being connected. I wasn’t constantly checking my e-mails, texting or calling. I was in the present, spending quality time with my family.
We expect everything so fast. We are reachable and “on” 24/7. Technology provides us with instant gratification. However, I think at times this hinders us. We need down time and I think technology cuts into this time. Of course this only occurred to me because of the toilet incident. But now that I’m aware, I intend to make more time to be disconnected.
I needed to pick up a kid’s birthday gift this weekend, so we took a quick family visit to the Westchester Mall in White Plains. As you may know, I am not fond of shopping and unless I need something, I don’t spend a lot of time browsing or window shopping. However, we went to the food court for lunch and stumbled upon Yogibo. I was not familiar with the brand or the store.
For starters, it is a wide open, inviting space with bright, cheerful colored bean bag furniture. Adults and teens are lounging on these bean bag like chairs while kids are running, jumping and playing throughout the store. A friendly employee encouraged us to come in and try the products.
As I entered, I felt like a cross between a kid in a candy shop and something from Woody Allen’s Sleeper movie. This oblong chartreuse Yogi Maxbean bag chair was upright and as my daughter describes it “you karate chop it” where you would like to sit or lay. Then one proceeds to place their body in the newly created crease. I was a bit hesitant, but to my surprise it was very comfortable and held its position. The company’s tagline “The only furniture that loves you back!” suits the products.
My husband, who was comfortably lounging across the store, looked like he was on the verge of a nap. The kids on the other hand, had no hesitation and literally karate chopped each and every Yogibo on display. At times they would lay back, almost fall into the oversized bean bag pillows and make them a lounger, bed like creation. You know I’m getting old when I tried to get up and was not only off balance, but couldn’t figure out how to gracefully maneuver my body or the chair.
These products reminded me of Mogu, a Japanese design brand that made similar bean bag like chairs, pillows and dolls. Nine years ago they opened a store in Nolita, but closed in 2006. I even still have a Mogu Joy doll that was the big fad in 2004.
My daughter wanted to purchase a small pillow as a token of her visit. Although tempting, we walked away empty handed. However, my husband and kids are ready for a house, which I will never be ready for, but we agreed that if one had a finished basement or a den, these would make great furniture. I have a feeling, that if this store is still in business by the time we purchase a house, we will be owners of Yogibo furniture.
I recently had my year-end, long overdue massage at East Side Massage. I know some individuals who don’t like massages because they feel uncomfortable and don’t like to be touched. However, for me, if done right they are fabulous.
When trying to relax with my eyes closed, I find my mind racing with random thoughts. One reoccurring thought I have each time I get a massage is “Do massage therapists make good bakers?” I feel like a piece of dough being kneaded and think if they can knead my skin that well, then they surely can knead dough.
When the tension releases from my neck, shoulders and upper back and the knots pop, I feel like I’m having an out of body experience. It’s as if a ghost of tension is rising out of my body like smoke rising into the air. My back muscles are so tense, they are like a taut guitar string being plucked by the massage therapist’s strong hands. I am surprised how precise she is and how deep she can get into my muscles essentially bypassing everything in between. My mind visualizes the musculoskeletal system model from science class. Breathing through the pain, I unwind and ease into relaxation.
In almost a twilight like state I feel relaxed and then I find myself trying to identify which body part the massage therapist is using. Is it her elbow or her arm between her wrist and her elbow that is rolling down my back like a rolling pin? I briefly giggle to myself remembering the Friends episode where Ross gives Phoebe’s client, an older man, a massage using wooden spoons and Tonka trucks. It really doesn’t matter what body part is being used because my stress is successfully being released.
By the end of the massage I’m so relaxed that my mind has stopped racing. My body feels like a mound of jello and I ask the massage therapist if I can stay there all day. Politely, she thanks me and lets me know the hour is up. As I leave the massage table disoriented and sleepy with hair that my husband refers to as Nick Nolte like, I am in a zen like state and wonder how long the feeling will last. I’m not sure going to Quentin Tarantino’s Django Unchained movie right after is the best choice. I look forward to my next massage, which I hope will be sooner then December.
I was invited to a high school friend’s wedding in the French Quarter, New Orleans last weekend. When my husband agreed to watch the kids for the weekend I booked my ticket before he could change his mind. Who can pass on a girls weekend away in an eating capitol?
I often tell my clients to find inspiration and to facilitate creativity you need to be in tune with your senses at all times. When traveling, one must absorb the culture, observe the different behaviors and taste the local ingredients. Well I proudly followed my own advice and ate, drank and danced my way through New Orleans.
I love oysters – raw, cooked, fried, you name it. My trip began with a visit to Drago’s known for their Charbroiled Oysters. Like no other oyster I’ve had, these were succulent, salty, buttery, garlicky, cheesy, and delicious. It was the perfect combination of textures and tastes. As if that wasn’t enough, we ordered a dozen raw oysters to follow and they were fresh, cold, crisp, and briny.
After dinner, the festivities began and we met the bride and groom to be and our high school friends by the Riverwalk and Spanish Plaza. We worked our way to The French Quarter and had cocktails at French 75 Bar (attached to Arnaud’s). It had an old school atmosphere with the bartenders in tuxedos, funky monkey lights with crystal tassels and a variety of specialty drinks. I settled on the Caibiscus crafted with Cachaca, Falernum, Hibiscus tea, Grenadine and Lime Juice. Our evening continued with a few cheesy bar stops along Bourbon Street – I had to pass on dancing at The Beach and drinking Tropical Isle’s Hand Grenade cocktail. However, a visit to Bourbon street wouldn’t be complete without a final stop at Pat O’Brien’s. I don’t particularly like the Hurricane cocktail, but the saying goes “when in Rome do as the Roman’s do,” so I tasted it. I was craving dessert and ordered a White Russian or two instead.
Another must do, was Cafe Du Monde, which was our final destination at 1:00 am. The beignets were fabulous…not too hot, not too cold, not to fluffy and not too dense, all just right, drowning in confectioners sugar. I’m still raving about them to the point where my second grade daughter told me “Mom, why don’t you just write a small moment about them.” There is a reason Cafe Du Monde is an institution and open 24/7. Even though they sell their signature beignet mix, I’m convinced you can’t recreate the same experience at home. Whenever you try something for the first time and really enjoy your experience, the next time you try it you’re chasing the high. There’s got to be a science to it…the difference in water, frying oil (assume it’s been used multiple times), the actual shape & size and the heavy handed use of powdered sugar. That’s just the physical aspect of the beignets, but the waiters and waitresses with their white paper soda jerk hats and black bow ties hustling about, all create a memorable experience. I have the same theory for NY bagels and Philly pretzels. BTW – my black dress didn’t stand a chance, I was covered in powdered sugar, but it was worth it!
Saturday morning began with a quick jaunt to the the Audubon Aquarium. Had time permitted, I would have liked to visit the Insectarium – oh well next time. Eating was essential and we had to grab a quick bite before the wedding so we met our friends at Killer Poboys in the back of the Erin Rose bar. They only offer a selection of five poboys that are all “internationally inspired and chef crafted.” Although I’m not a big fan of cilantro or coriander, the Coriander Lime Gulf Shrimp (with marinated Daikon and carrot, cucumbers, herbs and the house special aioli) piqued my interest. It was delicious! The coriander was perfectly balanced and not overpowering, the shrimp were plump and fresh and I loved the doughiness of the bread with a hint of crisp, flakiness.
Our adventure continued as we headed to the French Quarter Wedding Chapel, which on their website states “Please do not come more than 15 minutes before scheduled wedding time it could cost the couple.” Keeping this in mind, it was no surprise that when we arrived I felt like I was in a Quentin Tarantino movie…dollar bills hanging from the chapel ceiling, Tiffany lamps haphazardly arranged, an old boom box, a few pews, a couch, four living room chairs, folding chairs and wedding knick-knacks randomly placed. Elvis’ appearance was an added touch, but I had a hunch he’d be there. When I first received the wedding e-vite to attend a “chapel” wedding, I mistakenly thought it was going to be held in Las Vegas and expected Elvis. The bride in jeans, with a white blouse and flip flops and an unshaven groom in jeans – both holding Styrofoam cups filled with a cocktail, seemed perfectly suited for the setting. Vows were exchanged with Elvis singing/asking the groom if “he would take the bride to be his hunka-hunka burning love?” As we toasted the newlyweds with champagne, we were beaded and given white handkerchiefs.
For a real New Orleans experience, we gathered outside the chapel and to our surprise there was a 2nd line brass band. With a police escort, 35+ guests practiced their “woos” and waved their handkerchiefs high in the air as we paraded and danced through the French Quarter. Tourists and on lookers watched as we threw beads at the crowd and drank from our red solo cups, which the reverend allowed guests to generously fill as he drove his electric wheel chair with a cooler attached alongside the parade. We paraded for a mile and ended at Mojito for cocktails and appetizers. We sipped on housemade mojitos, snacked on crab cakes, listened to the band, and enjoyed the wedding celebration.
At 6:00 pm it was time to eat again and we needed our grand finale, hurrah meal. The night before I had asked the local Pat O’Brien’s bartender to recommend her favorite restaurant and off we went to Jacques Imo’s in Uptown. This restaurant did not disappoint… I was fond of the watermelon mojito. As they say the rest is history.
It was a whirlwind two day weekend, but the most unique, non-traditional and memorable wedding I’ve ever attended. I truly appreciated being a part of the moment.
I’ve been in the fragrance and flavor industry for twenty years, the last seven years as the founder of Trendincite LLC, and I’ve yet to write about my own personal experiences with scent and scent memories. Whether I write for Tidbits, Trendincite’s bimonthly newsletter, or for Forward Thinking, my column in Perfumer & Flavorist magazine, the material focuses on the parallel relationship between fragrances and flavors. Like several colleagues, I fell into the industry and once here, I stayed. I have a keen sense of smell, which was always there from childhood, but was refined by working in the industry with experts.
When I think back to childhood, there are several familiar scents that take me to a certain place and time. In elementary school, I distinctly remember the scent of vomit. I had a visceral reaction…when a kid in school vomited, the smell alone created a knee jerk reaction and often caused me to gag and then puke. I have a seven year old daughter and four year old son and to this day if they throw up, I gag and it takes every ounce of me to hold back my smell instincts. I feel similarly about the smell of garbage, particularly on a hot summer’s day in New York City – I flash back to the foul smell of rotting fish and spoiled food in Chinatown or urine soaked New York City subways. In East Hampton when the wind blows in the wrong direction, the smell of dank, wet salty and dirty seaweed wafts into my nostrils. As you drive along a country road, the quick, passing whiff of a skunk is unforgettable. And I’d be remiss if I left out the smell of mulch – manure combined with a sweaty, salty body odor note, most unpleasant.
In contrast, I absolutely love the scent of fresh baked bread – a little sweet, salty and yeasty. I’ve been trying, as I’m sure others have been, to have a perfumer create a fresh baked bread fragrance that accurately captures the yeast accord. I can’t wait until a perfumer nails this scent. Mark my words – it will be an instant success. There’s also nothing like the smell of fresh cut grass even if there is cis-3-Hexen-1-ol. Or the smell of potato fields – dry, starchy and a bit earthy. And the sweet, honey hay-like scent that I smell while passing open fields.
These are just a few examples of my scent recollections. My personal scent memories and specific scent associations help me recognize certain fragrances or ingredients based solely on what they remind me of. When I smell a grapey note like the one used in Giorgio perfume, it takes me back to Dimetapp, the cough medicine I took as a child, and I recognize Methyl anthranilate. I disliked Dimetapp as a child and therefore I do not like the cloying scent of Giorgio now. Anything with orange flower strikes a chord and brings me back to Bain De Soleil Orange Geleesun tanning lotion; some feel this way about Coppertone. It’s the signature smell of summer, which I loved as a child and am still fond of today. In the 80’s when I was a teenager, my peers wore Tea Rose perfume, an aldehydic rose floral, which I thought smelled like old ladies. Today when I analyze fragrance market research data, respondents frequently describe aldehydic floral notes as “old lady” and “grandma like.” This reaffirms my teenage evaluation of Tea Rose perfume before I even had “aldehydic” in my vocabulary.
In hindsight, who knew that my childhood scent experiences would be the stepping stones that launched my career in fragrance? Unbeknownst to me, all of these childhood scent memories have directly impacted my sensibilities. I now recognize that creating signature scents and worthy scent memoires for consumers is a tall order to fill. I appreciate a scent that is polarizing and recognizable, often a blockbuster signature like Angel, because whether you love it or hate it, you remember it. I applaud perfumers who are able to create these signature scents that stand out from the crowd. Knowing that fragrances can create such an emotive response intrigues me and makes the fragrance and flavor industry exciting and ever changing.
From my twenty years of industry experience, I am hypersensitive to smell – both good and bad. I’m grateful for this ability and find myself at any given time instinctively and habitually smelling products, foods or beverages prior to buying, ingesting or using. Today my children mimic me and smell everything from fresh flowers to public restroom soap. They’re so scent aware that they can both recognize cherry almond because more than half of New York public restrooms, particularly restaurants use it. And when they don’t recognize the smell of the soap, in surprise they ask, “Mommy what does this smell like?” By this process, they are creating their own scent memories.
Smell is such an integral aspect of our being, but we often take it for granted. The odd thing is that I have an identical twin sister who is anosmic and lost her sense of smell due to a childhood accident. We are similar in so many ways, but one defining difference is that I have an acute sense of smell and she has none. I can’t imagine life without smell nor working in any other industry.
When you ask my kids, “What’s mommy’s favorite color?” without hesitation they will answer “black.” Perhaps growing up in NYC is where I learned to love black. My entire wardrobe is black. However, when I was growing up as a child, they didn’t make black clothes for babies or children. It was considered taboo. Today my daugther’s wardrobe consists of a variety of fashionable black clothes from head to toe. Sadly but fittingly, when my father passed away a year and a half ago, my daughter wore a silky black blouse, black skirt, black tights and black patent leather shoes to the funeral. When asked by a guest, did I buy this outfit specifically for the occasion, I replied “no, fortunately we had it.”
While on the subject of fashion…the LBD never goes out of style and is constantly being reinvented through new materials and designs. Tonight I had dinner with my family in Ridge Hill (new shopping center in Yonkers) and I happened to pass a White House / Black Market shop. I hate shopping, but was familiar with the store (my close friend raves about it), so I went in. I have to admit the “black” attracted me to the store. To my surprise, they had some very nice clothes. The materials, textures, and designs were classic yet contemporary and well tailored. The concept was simple, the clothes were merchandised well and the staff was friendly. The store offers black and white clothes and each season they focus on an accent color such as red, wine, and now metallic gold / silver for the holidays. I walked away with a new black and white patterned dress and the store gained a new customer. I think I’ll be back.
Moving to packaging…when I was in art school at Washington University in St. Louis (many years ago) we had an advertising project to design a new dog food package for Purina. Purina invited us to present our concepts. At the time, I designed a sleek black package. This was unheard of – food wasn’t ever packaged in black, not even dog food. Flash forward. Here are just a few examples of current black dog food packages …Walmart Pure Balance, Merrick Grain Free and ProBiotic Live.
Black is now a standard packaging color in beauty care products. About seven years ago I remember when black was the “it” package color and naming convention in men’s fine fragrance with the likes of Polo Black and Double Black, Kenneth Cole Black and Vintage Black, and Kiton Black.
The English word black isn’t good enough and the newest buzzword is “Noir” (black in French). A few new honorable mentions are Chanel Coco Noir, which the company describes as “nocturnal Baroque – a celebration of Gabrielle Chanel’s use of black and Venice’s influence on her designs and her life,” Tom Ford Noir and Agent Provocateur Pétale Noir.
I’ve had Trendincite LLC for 7 years and I’ve just now decided to move into the 21st century by having a blog. Who knows what’s next? I could have a twitter account, an IPhone, IPad, or an e-mail address that isn’t aol. My underlying belief is “if it isn’t broken then don’t fix it.”
As some of you know I pay attention to details and I’m a perfectionist or at least I try to be, particularly when I write. There were a few reasons I didn’t want a blog… 1) it adds more things to do to my never ending list, 2) it requires me to write in 1st person with no editors to review my work, 3) it’s not scripted or researched compared to my business writing and last but not least, 4) it might be boring. Anyhow, here it is.
For a person who professionally follows trends and enjoys new products and experiences, I’m afraid of technology. No matter what industry you’re in, technology is what propels products and services to move forward. I do appreciate this. However, I have no interest in having the latest or the greatest new gadget. I still have my Blackberry Bold 9930 and I’m not embarrassed to use it.
Two years ago my husband gave me an IPhone for my birthday. Knowing me so well, he paid in full so that he didn’t have to change my plan just in case I didn’t want to make the change. I’m in trends, so naturally I should have excitedly opened the phone right away and never looked back. What did I do? I stared at the apple logo on the wrapped package for quite some time and then apologetically said thank you, but no thank you. You know why? I was afraid to make the change when I didn’t need to. I have too many distractions in life already and I can’t keep up with what I do have. I didn’t want all of the great bells and whistles. I want simplicity and efficiency. I like typing on my Blackberry instead of a touch screen and it meets all of my basic professional and personal needs for now – calendar, address book, e-mail, text, camera etc. Technology requires embracing change. It’s constantly being updated and unless my needs aren’t being met, I don’t see a reason to embrace change.
My final thought…although brand loyalty is hard to come by these days (because there are way too many choices), I can understand why consumers stay with a product or service because it meets their needs at the time.